![]() In the prototype, the tracks were almost the same, but the audio was on the outside rather than running in between. Obviously I'll adjust the design for future batches now that I'm aware of the problem. Just the best solution I can think of right now. You'll have to get a new resistor and capacitor and wire them in-line to recreate the circuit. The idea is to remove the indicated chips (10k resistor and 0.1uF capacitor) shown, then solder wires, preferably shielded, to the tiny pads and re-make the connection. If you hear a hiss from some input selections, but not others, then that indicates some sort of circuit problem in your receiver and you should have it serviced or replaced. Its typically due to interference due to low-quality. Caution: we're talking about very small components so a steady hand, good magnification, and an understanding how to remove surface mount chips is required. Hiss, Buzz, Hum, or electrical noise / computer noise are the most common problems, and the cause of these problems are usually the same. The others showing a possible hacker's solution, if they want to rectify the situation and still retain use of their I2C. One shows the problem, with the audio signal track running a LONG way sandwiched between the two I2C data lines (is that not an example of the theoretical worst thing I could have done in this situation?). MikeB wrote:Looking at the tracking, I think the I2C signals and the audio signal run a long way close to each other. The Taranis can be sensitive to the antenna bent left or right coupling RF into its audio I find.īusy week next week, not home until late so I may not get Rc time until the weekend again. No issue I cold tell with the xjt I'm using however. That area may be prone to some RFI if a high a rf power module is used. The audio circuit below the amp is prone to picking up my cfl lamp buzz if I put my finger on the trace. Not having the loud choppy audio and just the faint buzz is what I'm dealing with. I probed the input to the amp but didn't see anything I could reference to the data buzz I hear. I have a dual trace scope so maybe both probes on the speaker leads, invert one channel? 15 Of The Best Songs To Test Speakers Best Songs To Test Speakers 1. I'm trying to scope the amp circuit but haven't figured out how to scope the output. I didn't think that it would, but it was on my list. It didn't help with the faint high freq buzz. Any thoughts?Įdit: model is an older version of the “dect 6.0 plus” / “tga401”Įdit:: no components are hot to the touch when noise is made.Just because it was discussed, I swapped out the speaker with a larger 8 ohm like the one I used in my Taranis update. That is called the signal-to-noise ratio. Once the music is playing, it is not audible. Even if you turn the volume all the way down, and there is still some remaining hiss, it means nothing. There are no vents and no bulging on either PTH cap, and besides the color & specs, they resemble the one pictured below. Before going forward, you have to promise to remember these two major points: 1. The cause of hiss noise is the electronic components themselves, referred to as inherent or self noise. From a technical standpoint, this would be similar to the sound of blue noise. Some digging online suggests that capacitors can hiss, piezoelectrically, but that seems limited to ceramic caps, not electrolytic ones. Hiss is a broadband noise that spans the entire audible spectrum but with more intensity in the high frequencies. The rest are SMD, and the PTH caps are held down by white adhesive. If the hiss comes back, see if the volume control affects the hiss level. However, if there is no hiss with only the amp, now turn on the pre-amp. There are a couple big ICs and two PTH caps. The GFA550 is 200 watts per channel and is a lot of power for your speakers, which have a sensitivity of 100 dB for one watt and you may find that you'll need a different amp to get rid of the hiss. I tried holding down various components within it to see if I could narrow it down - to no avail. It does this regardless of whether or not there are batteries in it, and after removing the back, I cannot tell where the noise is coming from. Recently, I’ve noticed one handset hisses during charging. They’ve worked reliably for at least 8 years, and I know Panasonic is excellent quality. Probably has to do with the fact that Motion+ is more powerful and has tweeters. After that I have checked my Soundcore Boost bluetooth speaker and it seems it has the same type of noise, but is audible only when I put the ear to less then 20cm. They have multiple charging stations, 2 remote bases, and one actual base station. Speaker is not connected to charger, so this is not transformer noise. I have a Panasonic landline (wireless) setup in my home. ![]()
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